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	<title>Comments on: Making Contour Maps on the Cheap</title>
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		<title>By: Darren J Doherty</title>
		<link>http://permaculture.org.au/2008/09/11/making-contour-maps-on-the-cheap/#comment-49753</link>
		<dc:creator>Darren J Doherty</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Jul 2010 11:16:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://permaculture.org.au/?p=614#comment-49753</guid>
		<description>G&#039;day, not a bad way for a smaller area Bill, though this method involves more than one person and would take a lot more time. 

A colleague of mine earlier in the year did a 200ha 2m survey of a farm in Mexico in 2.5 days...got back to the car loaded up the points onto his laptop and then hooked onto the internet via his 3G stick and posted the points to me....the results can be found here (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gg_32Jr5ITq2owOSVqIg9w?feat=directlink)....

I should add that the most important thing to survey when intending to do cut &amp; fill earthworks is to survey not using the grid method but along &#039;tops and toes&#039;. 

Grid surveying using the method Bill has described is something I did back when I started the Permaculture journey and our 1st job financed a dumpy level. My partner at the time, Michael Heenan (also my brother in law) and I surveyed a clients undulating property and had a lot of fun doing it but boy it was a pain....important thing was that we missed so much of the actual topography as a result of taking &#039;shots&#039; on the grid and not on the landscape tops and toes.  

Our intention is to use this method to give us a better than government map topo map (often 10-50m contours!) using relatively cheap and available equipment. We can then get a better idea of the patterns of the landscape and design a plan accordingly. 

At the end of the day however the old adage of &#039;the map is not the territory&#039; comes in and we still use a design as a guide which then informs us as to a set out which is based on the land on which we stand and measure accordingly. 

Best thing to do is to know all of the basics, which includes the method Bill described, as machines do fail and we have to fall back on other techniques occasionally. 

All the best, 

Darren</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>G&#8217;day, not a bad way for a smaller area Bill, though this method involves more than one person and would take a lot more time. </p>
<p>A colleague of mine earlier in the year did a 200ha 2m survey of a farm in Mexico in 2.5 days&#8230;got back to the car loaded up the points onto his laptop and then hooked onto the internet via his 3G stick and posted the points to me&#8230;.the results can be found here (<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gg_32Jr5ITq2owOSVqIg9w?feat=directlink" rel="nofollow">http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gg_32Jr5ITq2owOSVqIg9w?feat=directlink</a>)&#8230;.</p>
<p>I should add that the most important thing to survey when intending to do cut &amp; fill earthworks is to survey not using the grid method but along &#8216;tops and toes&#8217;. </p>
<p>Grid surveying using the method Bill has described is something I did back when I started the Permaculture journey and our 1st job financed a dumpy level. My partner at the time, Michael Heenan (also my brother in law) and I surveyed a clients undulating property and had a lot of fun doing it but boy it was a pain&#8230;.important thing was that we missed so much of the actual topography as a result of taking &#8217;shots&#8217; on the grid and not on the landscape tops and toes.  </p>
<p>Our intention is to use this method to give us a better than government map topo map (often 10-50m contours!) using relatively cheap and available equipment. We can then get a better idea of the patterns of the landscape and design a plan accordingly. </p>
<p>At the end of the day however the old adage of &#8216;the map is not the territory&#8217; comes in and we still use a design as a guide which then informs us as to a set out which is based on the land on which we stand and measure accordingly. </p>
<p>Best thing to do is to know all of the basics, which includes the method Bill described, as machines do fail and we have to fall back on other techniques occasionally. </p>
<p>All the best, </p>
<p>Darren</p>
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		<title>By: Bill</title>
		<link>http://permaculture.org.au/2008/09/11/making-contour-maps-on-the-cheap/#comment-39516</link>
		<dc:creator>Bill</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Dec 2009 21:56:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://permaculture.org.au/?p=614#comment-39516</guid>
		<description>If you have the laser or optical level, you can place a lattice of points over your area. A regular square grid is easiest, and you can use a tape down one of the lines to keep people in position. Pacing is sufficient, and with a positional error of about 1 to 3 m, it is at last as good as a hand-held GPS, if not better.

If you want to look at the errors, change the vertical values at a point, and re-compute the volume, looking at the differences. A change in horizontal location will cause smaller errors than changes in a vertical value, if the surface is not very steep.

If you can get enough hose, you can do the leveling with the water level (bunyip level, hose level, water level, or hypsometer), but an optical level and staff/rod or laser level and staff/rod can be a lot quicker and easier, especially if the ground is reasonably level.

The advantage of a regular square grid is that the computations are much easier. You can do it easily in Excel, or on paper, but if your points are irregular, you introduce a lot of computational overhead, with the chance of significant gross errors.

If you are looking at a low-tech solution, keep it simple all the way. Don&#039;t complicate things unnecessarily, and just because there are a few high-tech pieces of gear in the overall system doesn&#039;t mean that the errors are any less. They just hide differently. Computing volumes has a fairly high error potential, simply because you can&#039;t measure every point, so you are looking to get the result to within 1-2 truckloads of dirt, 10-20 m^3 or yd^3.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you have the laser or optical level, you can place a lattice of points over your area. A regular square grid is easiest, and you can use a tape down one of the lines to keep people in position. Pacing is sufficient, and with a positional error of about 1 to 3 m, it is at last as good as a hand-held GPS, if not better.</p>
<p>If you want to look at the errors, change the vertical values at a point, and re-compute the volume, looking at the differences. A change in horizontal location will cause smaller errors than changes in a vertical value, if the surface is not very steep.</p>
<p>If you can get enough hose, you can do the leveling with the water level (bunyip level, hose level, water level, or hypsometer), but an optical level and staff/rod or laser level and staff/rod can be a lot quicker and easier, especially if the ground is reasonably level.</p>
<p>The advantage of a regular square grid is that the computations are much easier. You can do it easily in Excel, or on paper, but if your points are irregular, you introduce a lot of computational overhead, with the chance of significant gross errors.</p>
<p>If you are looking at a low-tech solution, keep it simple all the way. Don&#8217;t complicate things unnecessarily, and just because there are a few high-tech pieces of gear in the overall system doesn&#8217;t mean that the errors are any less. They just hide differently. Computing volumes has a fairly high error potential, simply because you can&#8217;t measure every point, so you are looking to get the result to within 1-2 truckloads of dirt, 10-20 m^3 or yd^3.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Robert</title>
		<link>http://permaculture.org.au/2008/09/11/making-contour-maps-on-the-cheap/#comment-38901</link>
		<dc:creator>Robert</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Dec 2009 01:28:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://permaculture.org.au/?p=614#comment-38901</guid>
		<description>This so-called Bunyip level is simply a clear plastic tubing/hose filled with water. In the Philippines this is a standard tool by carpenters, and is called simply a hose level. I have used it, still use it, in my hydraulic ram pump projects (site surveys and installations). But here, we use an entirely clear/transparent hose-- so that bubbles along any section can be seen and removed. If only the two foot-long ends are transparent, bubbles that form in the non-transparent sections can&#039;t be seen and this could result to inaccurate readings. Hose levels are low-tech but simple, very  portable and effective. I call them GPH (Global Positioning Hose).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This so-called Bunyip level is simply a clear plastic tubing/hose filled with water. In the Philippines this is a standard tool by carpenters, and is called simply a hose level. I have used it, still use it, in my hydraulic ram pump projects (site surveys and installations). But here, we use an entirely clear/transparent hose&#8211; so that bubbles along any section can be seen and removed. If only the two foot-long ends are transparent, bubbles that form in the non-transparent sections can&#8217;t be seen and this could result to inaccurate readings. Hose levels are low-tech but simple, very  portable and effective. I call them GPH (Global Positioning Hose).</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: eric seider</title>
		<link>http://permaculture.org.au/2008/09/11/making-contour-maps-on-the-cheap/#comment-29832</link>
		<dc:creator>eric seider</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Mar 2009 09:49:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://permaculture.org.au/?p=614#comment-29832</guid>
		<description>What you&#039;ve made is a bunyip level.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What you&#8217;ve made is a bunyip level.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Stan Depuy</title>
		<link>http://permaculture.org.au/2008/09/11/making-contour-maps-on-the-cheap/#comment-29737</link>
		<dc:creator>Stan Depuy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 02 Mar 2009 00:31:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://permaculture.org.au/?p=614#comment-29737</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m not having much luck finding out what a Bunyip/water level is.
I&#039;ve taken a hose filled with water with a foot of see through tubing at each end and viewed the water level to find the same heigth from one spot to another. Is that similar to the bunyip?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m not having much luck finding out what a Bunyip/water level is.<br />
I&#8217;ve taken a hose filled with water with a foot of see through tubing at each end and viewed the water level to find the same heigth from one spot to another. Is that similar to the bunyip?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Martin Hartigan</title>
		<link>http://permaculture.org.au/2008/09/11/making-contour-maps-on-the-cheap/#comment-29137</link>
		<dc:creator>Martin Hartigan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2009 15:22:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://permaculture.org.au/?p=614#comment-29137</guid>
		<description>Very helpful Darren, thanks.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Very helpful Darren, thanks.</p>
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